Wellington City Libraries

The following transcription of Thomas Shepherd's journal was made by Hilda McDonnell. The pages of the manuscript have been numbered. Punctuation has been modernised and some new paragraphs created. Spelling has mainly been left in the original.

On Sunday 5th March 1826, at approaching the Island for Pegasus Harbour about 6 miles distant on the south-east side, a great variety of hills appeared in view, some of which formed an agreeable background, and looked full of luxuriant vegetation, except a few of a rocky appearance.

A few rocks of a whitish and red colour above the waters edge bordered the beach with low grounds between them at iregular distances. I admired the appearance of this part of the country.

The entrance to the harbour rather barron, the low grounds being rocky: but the uphill lands very much covered with Trees and Shrubs of various coloured greens intermixed with a few dead Stems here and there. The scene looked very romantic. After having entered the harbour, I was struck with astonishment at its beautiful appearance; extending from North to South in a serpentine form several miles in length and from a quarter to two miles in weadth, bordered on each side by sloping hills covered with fine trees of various kinds. A little further up the harbour the views are exceedingly rich. Near the waters edge are rocks so placed by nature as if they had been done by men of superior taste, with many curious creeping plants growing carelessly between them. Birds were flying about and made a noise. New varieties opened to view every few yards as we advanced. About three miles within the mouth of the harbour were several small rocky Islands ornamented with handsome Shrubs. They were placed near a sandy beach, where the report of a gun was heard and a person seen walking there, which rather surprised us, as we did not expect to find any person up on the Island. A little further up the harbour, where we droped the anchors, three points of land and distant hills

of singular figured shapes opened to view. We were now shut in from the sight of the sea, and safely anchored in a spacious harbour, in every respect in appearance like a noble river, and sarounded on all sides by sloping hills of moderate height, richly ornamented by a great variety of handsome growing trees and shrubs, all of which have been planted by the hand of Nature.

Having been so long upon the sea I enjoyed the change more than I ever did any thing in my life. The scene to me was enchanting. I went on shore to examine the natural productions, quality of the land, &c. On landing I saw the man which was seen walking on the beach and who fired the gun, and was informed by him that no less than thirteen of his party were in the neighbourhood a sealing for a Gentleman at Cidny [Sydney].

I went into the woods with anxious curiosity to look at a Nation of trees and plants which I had not seen before. Indeed they were nearly all strangers, for with the exception of about a dozen, all were unknown to me. I was highly gratified, for numbers of them were very beautiful in their habit of growth, shape and colour of folliage. As I shall if possible give a description of every tree and plant of any value which I may find growing upon this Islands in a place by themselves I shall only notice at present a few such as are striking objects in the general feature of the country.

Some of the timber trees are of large growth, particularly three sorts; th first is of the pine tribe and is known by the name of Pimise (Pinus?) in 3 varieties in the north. The second is something like the lucombs Oack, and the third is called the Red Gum or Eucalipticus; I have seen it in England.. All the other varietys of trees which I saw can scarcely be called timber trees, as very few measure a foot in diameter, but they form an agreeable contrast amongst the other trees. The three varieties of Pine are very tall and handsome, and one in appearance like the Lucombe oak grows tall but not so straight; the Eucalipticus grows to a great thickeness in the stem and frequently not less than fifteen feet in girt but not more than 15 or 20 feet in hight before it spreads its large branches in every direction; a number of very large trees of this kind had fallen down either by high winds or a natural decay; trees of a different kind had grown to a considerable size out of their decayed trunks.

Several sorts of creepers grow to a hight in festoons from tree to tree. The Tree Fern is a very striking object in the woods; it grows from 20 to 40 feet in hight and from four to eight inches diameter in its stem, whch is of a spongy, brittle nature. A great variety of other ferns, Flax plants, tufts of grass &c are growing in and round the outsides of the woods.

Little natural hills were covered with a profusion of trees in such tasteful confusion, excelled everything of the kind I had previously seen. Deep glens fel from the high ground and are ful of majestick trees. Seals of the Hair kind are numerous here. I have seen some of them. The Furr seals are here also but not so plentiful as the other; I have not as yet seen any of them. The Hare seal is a singular looking animal of a brownish colour. His head is something like the head of a large bull dog with bristals like a cats and round his nose but much stronger and longer, its body as large as a middle sized calf; tapers gradually towards his hinder flippers, has very strong fore flippers which he makes use of as feet when on land and as fins when in the water; He can ascend the highest hills where he makes tracks some thing like human foot paths from the water through the woods to the top of the highest hills to the distance of miles; on the hills they whelp and suckle their young and when the young ones grow strong they bring them by degrees from the hills to the shallow water and when nearly full grown takes them off to sea from whence they return in the proper Season. (The furr Seal does not frequent the woods but breeds about the rocks.)

When a Man approaches towards them they stand upright upon their hinder flippers and at this time they have not a very friendly appearance; a Sharp blow with a club upon their nose generally kills or stuns them but if upon their head the place generally swells: when this is the case it will take many hard blows before they will die. The male generally called the Sea Lion grows much larger and of a darker colour than the female. They live principally upon fish.

The land in this place is of a spongy nature, being generally composed of decayed timber and vegetable substances; may be cultivated but at a great expense owing to so much wood upon it. Here the silvery water adds greatly to the beauty of the woods; here are many fine coves. Captn. Bell, one of our party, made an excurtion a few miles further up this delightful harbour; gives a good account of what he has seen. He shot several ducks, Red bills, a wood hen and killed a Hare Seal. The settlers were all sent on Shore for the benefit of their health. I had found a few seeds but very few are ripe. Cockles, Mussels & oisters are plentiful and excellent.

Weeping trees and rugged singular shaped rocks. The deepness of the glen, lofty weeping trees and the Noises of the water rushing down the rocks into smooth, clear, still water might well be called amongst landscape painters in the style sublime.

This river is well situate for the erection of mills. I walked by the side of it about a mile; the ground bordering upon its banks is rather marshy but capable of producing vegetables of most kinds were it cultivated. At present it is entirely covered with wood. The bottom of this extensive harbour is either a solid rock, Sand or gravel. The rocks are either a strong granate, granate and free stone mixed in one body and entire free stone of good quallity and a kind of rocky sand mixed with small metalic particles of a yellowish gold colour. Some of the beaches are covered with a fine white sand, others with yellow sand but loose rocky stones are more common. The surf on the beaches next the Sea runs very high and are very dangerous for boats.

Here were a Number of seal tracks which took a winding course up the hills through the woods. There were less underwood here than I have seen in other places in this neighbourhood. After returning from this brook I went down the next branch in Albion cove about half a mile distant from the brook. The landscape scenery here was enchanting. The trees here tutched the harbour waters and were in great variety, as closely united together from the waters to the tops of the hills as the

head of a beautiful Oak or Elm. It is impossible to say too much in the praise of this place. The nearest discription I can give of its appearance althou only in minature is when a choice collection of thriving plants are well arranged upon the stage of a green-house. There I fixed upon a place to cut down some timber trees.

A Kettle was filled with water and hung upon a cross piece of wood which was placed upon two forked stakes, which were sunk into the ground for that purpose. The water was boiled and we made tea of which with bread and cheese we made a good breakfast. After breakfast all hands (except one, which was to perform the office of cooke) proceeded immediately to cut down the timber and with the use of cross cut saws and axes cut 5 trees before dinner. We next dined at the place where we had breakfast. The day was delightfully fine and every individual seemed to enjoy himself perhaps more so than a party of Ladies and Gentlemen on a Gipsy party in England.

a raft; it was afterwards brought to a beach near to the Ship to be turned into planks. I have seen a few new sorts of trees in this place. Two whaling boats full of men belonging to Sidney came to the ship; they were a sealing party. Some of them were English, one Irish and one Black; the Black Man C. Herd shipped on board the Rosanna.

The harbour here is bordered by large rocks or from five, ten, fifteen and twenty feet high above the level of the water and are much overhanged by weeping trees and flax plants. We found several new species of trees, Shrubs and Perrenniels. The fresh water in this neighbourhood is good; but a bad colour, occassioned by its sizzing [?] through the ground in the woods, which is generally composed of rotten wood and decayed vegitables. We saw no level land, the ground being generally hilly; deep glens and ravines similar to those already described. Several small Islands are situate about this part of the harbour.

We, Capt Herd (Captn Barnett Mr. Lechmere Mr. Hay & Mr Kendal) and good self, had an excursion to Seal Cove and some of the adjacent coves and creeks for the purpose of finding out spars, being previouslyinformed they grew there, but we were disappointed. Some spars were to be found but none sufficiently large for Masts. At several places I took sketches with the pencil of the landscape appearance of the country (for the purpose of conveying a better idea of it than by writing). A Saw pit had been erected on shore near the ship; a Blacksmiths forge and cooking machine was placed near it. Have a piece of ground dug in the wood for Mustard and Cress; the ground was good but wet and spongy.

Five boats crews came to the Ship and wanted provisions, said they had not had anything to eat for twelve weeks except what they found about the Island; They said they belonged to Captn Worth of Sidney and were employed by him at catching seals and had run out of provisions owing [to] the Vessel not having come at the appointed time. They were not supplied, knowing they could find plenty of fish and potatoes upon the Island and because the payment was uncertain. Some Greens were found by some of our people, was cooked and were very tender. I suppose they had been sown or planted, as it does not appear they are natural productions.

The hills in this part of the country are very various in their hight and size. The small ones from one to two hundered feet in hight, generally not more than four or five hundred feet in length and from two to four hundered feet in weadth, rising in the middle like a ridge of a house and falling each way to angular points divided by glens, ravins, brooks, inlets, coves &c. The large hills rise from 500 to 2000 feet in hight to from one to two, three or four miles in length and one or two miles in weadth

divided in the same manner as the small hills by glens &c but differs from the small hills by being more rocky and barron at their extremities and less wooded and frequently small hills and indents are upon their sides.

South West about a mile distant in search of Spars and found a valey of no great extent where one here and there were growing…sufficiently large for small sized Masts and some excellent timber for planks, Knees (?) for ships &c. The ground in this Valey is very good in quallity and would make a fine garden, being well sheltered on all sides and a rivulet runs through it. We ascended a little hill where we had a view of part of the harbour and the sea. The wood at the top of the hill was very Scrubby, the cause of which we attributed to the sea breezes or to the land being more shallow than lower down where the trees were more thriving. I found a very singular growing shrub when we were discending the hill; it had been broken down to the ground and a young shoot about three feet in hight, of two or three years growth, had sprung up again. It was quite streight. The leaves were nearly all at the top of the shoot and were a foot to 18 inches long and about a quarter of an inch in weadth, with indented edges and a whiteish strip down the centre on the upper side, and it grew horosantle from on the stem. I found another stem near to it of the Anterrenium tribe; the bloom was white with a yellow eye and the leaves long,, narrow and pointed. It had a sweet smell. It grew to about 18 inches high and weeped. The folliage of plants here are generally shiney like those from China.

A considerable quantity of the Phormium tenex grows here in various places but mostly in low Marshy ground. But it is reported here that it is a bastard kind called by them the wood flax and not fit to be manufactured into flax. However we are trying experiements with it by bruising it in fluted rollers and by fermentation; we have also tried the experiment of boiling it, to soften the leafe which it did, but injured the flax. The other experiments we have not prooved.

We had a full view of both the eastern southern and western coasts and over a considerable extent of country toward the North. -As to the quality of the land, in my opinion some patches might be cultivated in the low grounds for grass and corn. The land is of a marshy or boggy Nature and chiefly lays upon a rocky bottom which would scarcely pay for Cultivating were the same land in England owing to the unevenness of the surface. The uphill land is nearly all rocks with little mould in patches upon them.

As to the natural productions into the interior the low grounds are full of brush wood, from 6 to 20 feet high, principally of the Tea tree or Diocema and nearly the same sorts of trees which surround the harbour. The uphill land produces scarecely anything but very dwarf Tea trees, shrub fern and a great quantity of a plant something like what we call in England Cats tail grass, which indicates the ground to be inclined to wet. At least one third of the hills are entirely rock without any earth upon them whatever. And as to the general appearance of this part of the Island, except round the Harbour it is both rugged and steril. I have only seen two small Valleys which might be cultivated with the plough…the one is a flat which leads from the foot of this Hill to the western coast and another flat in a tract which leads from Seal Creek on which the flax are growing, which I formerly described. These two tracts of land would not measure more than one hundred acres.

We saw hills at a great distance to the North which had also a very barron appearance.

Having now seen all the land in this neigbourhood or at least the principal part of it I do not think it necessary to make many remarks in addition to those I have already made as the advantage to be derived from this Island to the Company is of so very little importance, excep for the harbour and for any necessary repairs which ships may require. It is certainly true that a considerable quantity of useful timber, some Flax, Seals and Fish may be had here but not a sufficiency to induce any company to form a Settlement. We are informed that it rains Nine Months out of Twelve so that althou the ground were in good quality, is constantly as wet as a sponge, which would be injurious to the growth of most kinds of Vegetables and were corn to grow upon it would be impossible to harvest it.
It being so exceedingly wet here is no doubt the cause of so many trees looking healthy upon shallow land and also of trees growing out of the decayed trunks of others for if the country were moderatly dry, trees planted or sown on such situations could not live, much less thrive. The climate is certainly very Mild and healthy. C. Bell has been at the Northern side of the Island. Gives a better account of the land in that neighbourhood and does not think they have so much rain. He saw a village built in the New Zealand style and about 20 or thirty Natives, said they behave sivil to him.

Tatooed has very large full cheeks, lips near an inch thick and a large mouth and a downcast look, the uglist man I ever saw; 6 women are also here and several young Natives, men and boys who have nothing very particular about them, only their countenances are expressive of penitration and mostly looks cheerful. We have [had] several songs and rediculous dances performed by them but still with a kind of order or Musical time particular to themselves, which shows they have some genius. Their Baskets and Mats are particularly neat in the Manufacture. They are however very dirty in their persons. Their hair is course and of blackish brown colour, their eyes are very full, aquillan and rather inclined to flatness. The women were nearly naked excep their Mat which did not at times conceal their nakedness. The men were all dressed in Sailors clothing. They did not appear to be very particular in their food. I have seen them eat young Seal, dryed fish which had not been salted, Potatoes, Bisket, Salt Beef and Pork, rice &c. They preferred Sugar and water to any other drink. Their common drink is water.

any of their men to work as they would not interfere were Europeans to employ them. He said a new Zealand woman could dress 20 lb. of flax in one day, and that native men will do a great deal of work by paying them a reasonable price for it but I have proved since that 5 or 6 lb. of flax is as much as a woman can do in any one day and that the labour of a New Zealander can not be depended upon at any price. He said if a single party of armed men were to go into the interior they would not be safe as the natives would rush upon them with their spears after having received the first fire. But if a party of a hundred soldiers were to go into the interior well-armed it is very probable that a large body of Natives would be very afraid to attack them.

Tommy said the growth of Potatoes were common all over New Zealand where there were any inhabitants. They have also Cabbage Carrots Turnips and wheat. Said when they wished to clear a piece of ground 50 or a 100 natives would set to work and clear a large piece by entirely cutting down all trees and afterwards when they got dry set fire to them and then dig the ground and planted potatoes. He said the natives pay very little attention to any instructions which Europeans give them as they think their own method of doing thing (much better) preferable.
He said Arms is the only sure Method of sivilizing them, that Missionaries were of little or No use. He said they had some Idea of the being of a Good God and a Bad One, that the bad God made them ill and the Good God made them well. That their notion of sin was very limited, being chiefly in their breaking an oath, injuring a chiefs Hut or entering upon tabooed ground, that they did not think it a sin to commit Murder nor in eating human flesh, that they eat all parts of the body but the internals.

They think when they die they will go below the earth and live there with their wives and families. That some of them thought it a disgrace to die a natural Death and gave preference to die in wars.

They say a Man and a Woman went afishing without bait and the man gave his Nose a blow which made it bleed and instead of bait put the blood upon his fish hook and threw it in the water and fished with it and brought up with his hook all the Islands of New Zealand. Tommy said an immense quantity of Flax grass and tall trees were growing upon the South east side of the middle Island and that the land there was level and mixed with sand and said that the interior of New Zealand was not inhabited.

I have seen two New Zealand Huts erected since we came here which were far inferior to the pig styes in England. They were made about 10 to 15 feet long, about 8 feet broad; the sides and ends were made of the stems of three ferns place[d] close together upon the ground and met together at top in a sloaping direction near the centre of the building about 8 or ten feet above the level of the ground against a rail, which was fixed upon three posts, a hole at one end which served both for door, window and chimney; the outside was thatched with fern leaves and Flax, the floor was the natural earth with dry fern leaves put upon it; here they sleeped like a parcel of pigs and appeared to be very happy.

The Sailors here have a temporary dwelling by dragging their boats up upon the beach out of the reach of the Tide and turned them Keel uppermost, laid a quantity dry fern under their boats, rolls themselves up in a blanket of New Zealand cackatoo or Matt and sleeps upon the Fern.

Some of the New Zealanders here made a bed of dry fern under a projecting rock and another under the root of a large tree which had been blown down; they inclosed the spaces which were too open except a hole to creep in at with stumps of ferns, trees and bushes were they sleeped many nights.

dressed in the same manner as a European woman. She had been on board his vessel the Prince of Denmark one year and as he said, she acted as steward. The Elizabeth and Mary schooner (Captain Worth) arrived here this day. She belongs to Mr Underwood at Sydney.

I have this day found out by accident a water fal in a wood allmost at the upper end of Seal Creek on the right hand side of the creek, about a hundred yards distance from the creek. It runs down a shelving rock about 100 feet in length and 20 in weadth then falls between two perpendicular rocks about 30 feet high. The two rocks were about 10 feet distant from each other and about 40 feet in length; after the water fell between the two rocks it run at a right angle, it formed itself into a brook and run into the creek. I observed a substance in Seal Cove much like chalk, about 4 feet thick.

Saturday. -On the 27th April left Stewarts Island. We had a fine breeze, wind from the west, the land towards the north side of Stewarts Island not so mountainous as the South but still continued very much broken.

The entrance between the north and south sides of Muleneauxes harbour about 14 miles in weadth and 10 miles up on the North side of the harbour, the land level with a few low hills. The entrance to Muleneaux’s Harbour between the North and south sides is about 14 miles in weadth and about ten mile up on the North side of the Harbour. The land is level with a few gently swelling Hills.

distant from the shore the country rises in gentle swells but were much divided with gullies in a number of fantastick shapes. At the top of one of those hills were two woods of a darker green colour and the surrounding grounds was covered with ferns or something green. Had my orders been to go on shore I should have liked it much but this fell to the lot of Captain Bell who brought the following information: that the surf was so high he could not land. He saw rocks, level rocks, the land with poor looking ground between them which was covered with sturdy tea trees and course grass. The gullies were edged with perpendicular rocks from ten to 20 feet high with water between them. He could not give any account further than near the beach. I saw a whale near the ship, also a number of cape pidgions. The beach which surrounds this Bay is part white sand and partly perpendicular rocks.

No remarks on Tuesday 2d nor on Wednesday the third, the Ship at Sea.

We have at last seen about a 100 natives who came in their Canoes round the ship and some came on board, but they were informed that no business could be done today as we did not inted to trade but if they came tomorrow we wold purch. [purchase] all the flax they had and Potatoes & Pigs as well. They went away and when they got on shore formed themselves into four distinct parties at 4 different Villages which were placed near the beach and spent the remainder of the day as we supposed in observing our Motions and consulting about trading with us. Orders were publickly given by C. Herd to all persons on Board: first, that no person would be allowed to bring any Women on Board, Second, that No public quarrel should be allowed, third that no person should sell their cloths to the natives nor trade with them directly or indirectly without being liable to pay the same price for such goods as they might want in future the retail price at Sydney. Fourthly, that the Settlers should watch in regular order with the sailors night and day so long as we remained in this Harbour.

Friday 5th May had a considerable trade with the Natives, who dealt with us fairly.

by estimation we suppose to be from about 10 to 12 miles in length bearing by compass South by west from its entrance from the sea and from a quarter to half a mile in Width, forming a narrow chanel all the way up of a serpentine direction, from 5 to 7 fathoms deep and sufficiently wide for small Vessels; the other parts of the harbour are chiefly sand banks which are dry at low water but of sufficient debth for boats at high water. Similar to Pegasus Harbour Stewarts Island are sloping hills of various hights and shapes and sizes on each side all the way up, highly ornamented with trees and shrubs, some of which are the same sorts as those at Stewarts Island, but a great many are very different. I saw many fine pine trees and these were much inferior to the same kinds at Stewart Island.

In this harbour on each side are many creeks, rivulets, small bays and a brook of fine water. Up[o]n a small island about 4 miles up the Harbour I found in the space of a quarter of an hour growing upon a piece of land not more than 20 square yards, 40 different shrubs; most of them were of neat growth. Some very handsome creepers. Some of the trees I had not seen at Stewarts Island are very beautiful but time would not permit to take a description of any of them, being ordered not to go far into the woods as it was uncertain where the natives might be conciled.

When we reached the utmost extent of the Harbour we were agreeably surprised: instead of woods on each side as we had all the way up we saw a fine open Country, chiefly covered with flax plants, Fern grass and a few small shrubs, which might be easily burnt down and made ready for the Plough. This land is of excellent quallity, being a rich deep brown Stround loam, capable of producing grass and corn in the greatest perfection. It is singular the appearance of the country should thus change all at once from woods to open land which very much resembles some parts in England. There is a complete division between the open land and the woods, so much so that the clumps of trees, Hills and woods are all formed by nature in curved, straight and circular lines; part of the open land is level in Valeys, some on gentle declivities and some hilly. The extreme point of this harbour is near the sea and near the place where Captn Bell came on Shore the first of this month, so that the narrow Neck of land which divides the Sea from Port Oxley Harbour is allmost an Island. The hills may be seen at a great distance, towering one above another, the last in a cloud. It is probable this situation will be made a desirable settlement at some future period as there are plenty of Flax, Timber for building and firewood ec. And Plenty of fish & good land. We have seen a number of whales in the Harbour.- It was late before we got to the Ship, the night was wet and I cought a severe cold. – The Natives had been trading at the ship all day.

Monday 8th about 200 natives are in this neighbourhood. The settlers has been on shore. No remarks of any importance until the eleventh Thursday the eleventh May, when we weighed anchors to go out of the Harbour, the Sails were set, it blowed a fresh breeze which made the ship go fast and the whale boat not having been hoisted up was in danger of being swamped. Mr Greer the Mate went down in the boat to clear her from the ship; he had not been in her a minute before He and the boat both went down; he got hold of one of the oars and went about a mile before another boat could be lowered to pick him up. He was much exasted, was pickt up and taken to Captn Kents vessel which happened to be nearest to him and remained there a few hours and then came back to the Rosanna; we remained in the harbour all that night.

Friday 12 May Set sail for Banks’ Peninsula. The country from Port Oxley, the country to the distance of 30 or forty miles north of it, presents high iregular Hills in the back ground all covered with snow, Low Hills and Flat land in the front ground. A large proportion of land looked as if fit for cultivation; was not more at some places than two Miles from the shore. In some places the ground was much cut up by ravines, some of the low grounds nearly level with the sea. At the distance of 30 or 40 miles the country is quite low.

We intended to have gone into the harbour here, which seemed to have a good entrance at the South, but the wind proving contrary Captain Herd thought it would delay time and be of little benefit so continued our course for Cook Strait, with the Idea of viewing the coast as we went along. Two harbours are reported being on the northern side of the Peninsula.

To go into Cloudy Bay got near Wanga Nue Atra, saw the coast there and the opening to Wanga Nue harbour.

Monday 26 Feby 1827
Mrs Taylor
1 Pair Cotton Hose @ 3/------------------------------------- 3
1 Pair colourd d[itt]o 2/--------------------------------------- 2
1 Pair 1/6 1/6
Recd same time ₤6:6

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Mrs Taylor
10 [ ] Sarsenell 5/6--------------------------------------------5: 6
Recd on acct. ----------------------18/-
1 Dressing Combe-----------------------------------------------------4
1 pair Stockins colourd 2/ pair
1 Pair of Combes 3/ pair
ll side combs 2/6 each
3 Pocket Handkerchiefs @
1 1/2 yds Flannel @ 2/- pr yd.

This valey is surrounded on all sides except one with hills which have a very singular appearance, but all covered with verdure. A rocky headland is also on this side of the harbour. On another side bearing [ ] is high Mountains, some of which are full of trees which looks very green but they looks as if they were cloathed with grass or some other verdure. A considerable quantity of rocks here and there but principally at the base of the mountains. By the waters edge the mountains are formed in deep circular glens in places and conicle at their extrremities, some with high ridges and deep ravines between.

On the other side bearing [ ] is an excellent Harbour of sufficient length, weadth and deepth of water for the ankrage of two or three hundred large ships, and a range of Hills which lead to Queen Charlots Sound of similar appearance to those above described. We entered this harbour on the 19th of the month and I have this day been on shoar in company with C. Herd, C. Bell, ec, in the morning. We went to Cabbage Cove where we found a considerable quantity of that useful vegetable and wild celery and a cress peculiar to New Zealand. We were informed by some of the natives that the celebrated C. Cook left the seed of the cabbage. We had a quantity cut and brought them on board.

We found a great number of New Zealanders Huts which seemed deserted. They are miserable looking places, very low, in shape like the ridge of a house. We found a fine stream of water as clear as crystall. A great number of beautiful growing plants and trees were here, some of which I have seen at Port Oxly and Stewarts Island but a great many of them I had not seen before. Very fine timber trees of large growth are growing here but at a considerable distance by the side of the hill we saw [thus]

Entered Wanga Nue Harbour, which has two Islands near its centre, the one about a mile in circumference and the other about a quarter of a mile. Its situation is good being situated so near Cooks Straits, which gives an opening to the East and West Costs. In company with Captn Herd &c. I went on shore on the left hand side about two miles within the heads, at a Bay which has a good gravely Beach adjoining which is a livel plane of from 50 to a 100 acres, in shape of a semicircle bordered by high land on one side and the beach on the other. This plain is of a light sandy earth except one place, where it is marshy. It produces a considerable quantity of flax plants, Eateable Fern, a few varieties of shrubs and other plants of no value. Great part of the Flax &c. in this plane has been lately burnt down.

We next walked about 2 miles round the beach without seeing anything which differed much from what has been already described until we came to a small flat piece of land at the bottom of a hill where we found some huts and a shadow bower of trees where we found good spring water and plenty of cabbages. Here we had a refreshment, afterward ascended the Hill to take a View of the Surrounding country, which looked pleasant but of no great extent. Some of the hills looked barron, some covered with Verdure and some full of trees. A Valey between this hill and another bearing south from it has an inlet from the sea and a Lake of fresh water in it and about 100 acres of good marshy ground. Another Valey which winds through the Mountains on the opposite side of the Harbour is full of trees and has two fresh water rivers running through it.

The land upon this Hill is a strong red clay and in many places naked rocks. It produces dwarf flax, tufts of grass and a few Shrubs and Ferns. We have seen a few of the natives who yet have been Sivil. They brought us a quantity of Crab Fruit which was very good. They said they had got 4 or 5 Baskets of Flax and Plenty of Potatoes but no hogs & we caught several sorts of fish which were good. Have seen very few birds here.

At the Head of the Harbour on the right hand side is a Valey of large extent probably 10 to 20 miles in debth and about 2 miles in weadth. About half a mile of this valey next to the harbour is light sandy earth and marshy or bogy ground with many lakes of water and brooks and two Rivers which pass through it to the interior of the country. Here are growing in perfection a large quantity of fine Flax from 8 to 10 feet in hight, a number of straggling shrubs, fern grass and tufts of wood flax. After passing through this half Mile which fronts the harbour in going up the left branch river about two miles is a rich loamy soil of a great depth of staple chufty, thickly covered with beautiful trees and shrubs but no large timber. This river in most places is sufficiently deep for boats but the way is obstructed at some places by trees which have come down with floods. We was informed by one of the natives that it would take us three days to go to the extremity of this river and that we could find very large trees

The mouth of this river is what may be called a barr, as the water does not rise more than 6 to 7 feet over it. The other river or rather a branch leading into the mouth of the former is not so large as the other. We went up about a mile and found sufficient debth of water for the boats. The ground on its banks is covered with thick woods of beautiful sorts of trees & shrubs, many of which I have not seen before; but time would not allow to take specimens of them.

At the entrance of these rivers, the Natives have a few temporary huts where they are building a small Canoe. Here we were kindly received by the chief, he rubed his nose upon ours and asked us to eat with him. Capn H. desired kindly to give his people two fish hooks each, which he did, and they seemed pleased with them. We enquired at the chiefs of which of the rivers was the largest and he informed us that the right hand one was the largest, which however turned out to be the smallest. We could not account for his reason for attempting to deceive us.

He went with us up the left branch and when we returned neither he nor his people were so agreeable as before. He had a present for his trouble, and we left.

On the North side is Hills thickly covered with Trees and shrubs. The hills are steep and dive in some places, with seaviews.

On the South west side is a valey of large extent, probably 500 acres. The land here is various; light sandy loam, Marshy and the greatest proportion Good loamy earth with several brooks or rivulets. This is the most

At Stewarts Island is an excellent harbour, a sufficient quantity of timber for common purposes (but no spars fit for large masts), a great variety of ornamental trees and shrubs, very little land fit for cultivation, about ten acres had it been regularly planted of an inferior kind of flax, plenty free stone of good quallity, a few hare and fur seals, good fish, Ducks and various other birds.

At Port Oxely is a good harbour, a considerable quantity of timber fit for common purposes (no spars fit for masts), a greater variety of ornamental trees and shrubs than at any other place in New Zealand, Flax of good quality, quantity unknown, as I did not see more than two acres had it been regularly planted, plenty of good potatoes, plenty of good fish, a few ducks, about one hundred natives, a number of whales. At the head of the harbour about twelve miles from its mouth an extensive track of good land fit for cultivation.

At Cloudy Bay Wanga Nue is an excellent harbour, a considerable quantity of timber fit for common purposes (no spars fit for masts), a great variety of ornamental trees and shrubs, a very little flax, good fish, wood pigeons and a variety of birds and about thirty Natives. An extensive valley on the opposite side of the Bay about ten miles distant appeared to be good for cultivation and was reported by the natives

At Wanga Nue Atra Northern Island opposite Cloudy Bay is an excellent harbour, a considerable quantity of land fit for cultivation, about thirty acres had it been regularly planted of excellent flax, of which a large quantity had been burnt down, a considerable quantity of timber fit for common purposes, reported by the Natives to have large timber for common purposes, reported by Natives to have large timber in the interior, a great variety of beautiful trees and shrubs (name of Coudy [kauri] hitherto unknown amongst the natives) which shows thus no coudy grown upon the [illegible]; two fresh water rivers fit for the navigation of boats two or three miles up, good fish, ducks and a variety of other birds, and about forty or fifty Natives.

At Mercury Bay is a good harbour, several thousand acres of good land fit for cultivation, about twenty acres had it been regularly planted of good flax, a large quantity of Coudy and other sorts of timber fit for common purposes, and reported by the Natives to have in the interior considerable large Coudy spars fit for Masts, but the Natives being only thirty or forty in number, it was found impractable to get any brought to the harbour, a good variety of ornamental trees and shrubs; two fresh water rivers and several brooks empty their waters here, a few potatoes of inferior quality, a few pigs, good fish, a few quail, wood pigeons, ducks and other birds.

At the Firth of the River Thames are good harbours, on the west side of which (excep about ten miles) from its southern extremity as far as Bream-head is a fine level country which extends many miles into the interior. I have seen several square miles of this land which was of the very best quallity; has little timber upon

I found a numerious variety of neat plants upon a small rocky Island, chiefly shrubs, which I found 40 different plants in a quarter of an hour growing in the space of 20 yds. At the extremity of the harbour the country is quite open, chiefly covered with flax plants, long grass and several small shrubs, some [illegible], ec. This land is of excellent quallity, being a rich brownish loam capable of producing any kind of grass and corn in the greatest perfection. It is singular that the appearance of the country should thus change all at once from woods to open land.

The appearance of this part in every respect resembles some parts [of] good cultivated lands of Scotland or England. There is a complete division between the open ground and the woods, some clumps of trees, some belts and regular woods all bounded by sweeping or straight lines, with the opend land between and adjoining them. Some of this open ground is level in valeys, some on gently declivities and some hilly.

The extreme point of this harbour is very near the sea. It is probable this situation will make a desirable settlement at some future period as there are such immence quantities of flax growing wild.

The woods produce plants of [illegible] and timber for building ec. The fishes of various kinds [and a?] whale fishery would assure…

The largest of these creters is the one at the base of the mountain about 2,000 feet distant from the entrance beering E.NE. It is from 50 to 60 feet diameter at its mouth and of an unknown depth.

It was burning furiously and the flames arrived near its mouth with an immense quantity of dark and light coloured Smoke of a strong sulphureous smell. The next in magnitude to this is one about 500 yds. beyond it, which made a noice exactly like a steam engine full charged when the valve is opened. It was a large caldron of boiling hot brimston or some such combustible, which produced a large quantity of white coloured Smoke, gas or steam: but saw no flames arise out of it and liquid brimstone which congealed soon as it got cold. Of these small creters several are upon the mountain from......

The other two next in magnitude to these were not far distant from them and also produced a large quantity of white Smoke, out of a boiling hot liquid. The principal part of the other creters were small, only generally not more than from one inch to 3 inches diameter. These also produced a considerable quantity of white Smoke or gas and liquid brimstone which congealed soon as it got cold. Of these creters several are upon the mountain from...

It was also observed that these creters produced double the quantity of Smoke when the tide was full than when at ebb. And a hissing noise was heard from many of them.

A great proportion of this Valley has lately sunk 30 to 40 feet below the oridginnal livels. This low space is by far the most active in Volcanic eruption. It has sunk down as near as can be on a livel with the sea. It is probable this valley orignally had had only three large Creters burning in it (as three large visible circles are still to be seen in the form of the outer boundary of the valley) which had most probably burned down to a great debth and weadth, which undermined the mountain, and which had occasioned its falling into them, and by their being thus obstructed in their progress, small creters have burst out again in so great a number of places. It is remarkable that no living creature nor any vegitable substance was found in this valey. The high mountain which serounds it is nearly perpendicular which, together with the immense quantity of sulphuric Smock, strikes the spectator with terror.

This Valy is principally composed of brimstone in various quallities, large quantities of Iron, Stones, burnt earth and ashes, a kind of soft rock like pipe clay, which most likely would be good for bleaching cloth and washing, a crystalized white substance found outside of dry sulphur, a hard white stone, a soaft red do [ditto] and several other substances which I did not think of any value.

The mountain appears to be chiefly of volcanic origin, being a number of Strata which lays horosontal, verticle and longitude

[End of Thomas Shepherd’s Journal. See Appendix D for captions to his accompanying coastal views]

Chapter 8.......